Saturday, June 23, 2007

Travel 1


As I type, our good buddies, Andy Waskie and Carol Neumann, are sailing the high seas bound for the rocky coast of maritime Canada. Verily, this land-locked Kansas wretch doth envy them. I have very few addictions--don't gamble much, only drink in season, never do dope . . . anymore--but admittedly, travel is my Achilles heal, arm and leg.

I have mentioned in blogs past my phob of flying. Despite a stint in the U. S. Air Force, despite a virtual pilot's license, despite having spent literally months in the air, I HATE FLYING. And so. . . .

Since there are no highways or railroad tracks stretching from the New World to the Old, and since I prefer not to fly, that leaves only ships. I haven't seen any statistics on ocean travel versus air travel and I suppose if I did I would discover that a person is a million times more likely to perish from the former than the latter, but again, it is the quality of dying that I care about. I will happily take my chances with ice bergs, storms, old torpedoes, and even giant squids, as opposed to spending the last five minutes of my life screaming in terror as I fall from the sky.

I've crossed the Atlantic three times on ships. I've crossed the Baltic, Adriatic, Ionian, Irish, and North Seas dozens of times on ships. I've crossed the Straights of Gibraltar on ships. I've sailed for weeks on the Rhine and Danube. I'm never stressed when I step on board a ship, I sleep like a log at night, and when I disembark I never feel like I've just been dragged through an emotional knothole. While some of my worst travel experiences have come in the air, some of my best have been while sailing on ships. Like the first day of long trips, my first voyage is still my most memorable.

In 1976, my former wife, Maurine, and I attended the Montreal Olympics. After the games, we headed toward Maine but pulled up for a few days at Quebec City. One afternoon, while sitting high above the St. Lawrence, we saw a long, white Russian ocean liner passing below. The sleek and beautiful thing was gracefully following the river's current as it moved off toward the sea. We could see people standing on the rails looking up at us. We never forgot that sight and four years later we were the ones standing on the rails looking up at couples in Quebec City.

The S. S. Stefan Batory (right) was a little Polish passenger liner that had once been in the service of the Dutch merchant marine. As I discovered later when traveling on newer and more lavish ships, such as the Queen Elizabeth II, the little Batory was pure proletariat with few frills. But as we backed away from Montreal one overcast summer day and slid silently down the surprisingly clear St. Lawrence, Maurine and I would not have traded places with anyone on the planet. All our lives we had read about travel on rivers, of steamboats and Mark Twain, and our thrill at finally doing so was indescribable. Like ourselves, most of the other 600 excited passengers were also lining the rails as we glided down the river. As mile after mile passed, however, the passengers by twos and threes disappeared until eventually Maurine and I were almost the only ones still watching. Except for the low rumble of the ship's propeller shaft, it was so calm and peaceful that we could hear the "ha-lo's" from those fishing on the opposite shores. On the banks behind these people, almost every town, no matter how small, was seemingly crowned by an imposing cathedral. In the middle of this great, wide river were a number of small green islands. Strangely, on many of these spits of land were large herds of black and white dairy cows. Maurine knew something of animal husbandry and said they were young females quarantined from amorous bulls. Late in the day we watched as a flock of ducks followed our trailing black smoke back up the river toward the sunset and that evening, we stood by the rails as our ship passed under the cliffs of Quebec City (below). That first day on board the Batory may have been the most romantic hours of our lives.

The next morning when we went out, both Maurine and I were stunned to see nothing but fog and gray, angry water on every side. We were plunging into open sea. From a distance, the crest of the waves looked like snow capped mountains. Sea gulls, who seemingly never flapped a wing, were gliding among the valleys and tops of the waves like mountain eagles. Although the scene was not so extreme as those old films of "Victory at Sea" in which the ships disappear behind waves, still our little vessel was up and down like a roller coaster. In fact, the sensation was something akin to a ferris wheel and that lighter-than-air feeling coming down and double-gravity going up. As a consequence, the former fresh scent of flowers among the ships passageways was soon replaced by the revolting stench of vomit. At times, it seemed as if our little tub would capsize. I must admit that as I surveyed the scene all about us and saw nothing but ocean, I understood for the first time in my life what the pioneers on the Great Plains must have felt when they scanned the prairie on every side of their Conestogas and realized: "Hey, this is it! We're on our own."

(continued tomorrow)

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Cartoon of the Day
















Five Heads Made of Stone

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Friday, June 22, 2007

Badlands


Not only are all of my heroes cowboys, but all my heroes are cowboys who roam the badlands. Randolph Scott in Western Union, Gary Cooper in The Plainsman, Errol Flynn in They Died With Their Boots On, Joel McCrea in Buffalo Bill. Everyone of these men is scouting on the High Plains or riding the Platte or Smoky Breaks. There is no doubt in my mind that watching these movies as a kid shaped my attitudes toward that wonderfully overlooked void on the map once known as the Great American Desert.

Most folks from the East view that area which stretches between Kansas City and Denver, or between Omaha and Cheyenne, or between Oklahoma City and Albuquerque, as a necessary cross to bear in order to reach the mountains; as something to endure. Me? I see history. I see Cody atop his horse, shading his eyes from the sun with his hand as he sweeps the prairie from horizon to horizon; I see Randolph Scott thundering from the law through the Platte Breaks; I see Custer and Califerny Joe scouting the Powder; I see "Coop" and Calamity (right) trying to escape the Sioux to warn the cavalry. I see sage and yucca where corn and wheat now stand; buffalo, where cows graze.

Stretching from the badlands of the Dakotas and the Sand Hills of Nebraska, to the high and dry plains of Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and New Mexico, I would like to see men and women of vision working to set this region aside for posterity as a history zone; a land that can be allowed to return as it once was that future generations may visit, may ponder, may learn, may love.

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Hi Guys,

I just got back from DC. Copied more than $1000.00 in documents on Indian raids, etc. Came back and learned that Upton and Sons will do my book proposal on Custer in 1867, and if I have it to them by the end of the summer it should be out next June. All that is good news.... I'm off to the Little Big Horn for 3 days and then immediately off to San Antonio for 8 days to do a workshop there (all paid for) on the Alamo. And Kelley is going with me.....

Jeff Broome (right)
Denver

TG: Lucky Dog. Looks like Deb and I are mostly buried in sand here for the duration of the much-dreaded coming inferno, aka summer in Kansas. Being a professor sounds tough.


Hey Tom,

I think I emailed a link to this guy's website before. I was surfing the LBHA (Little Bighorn Associates) message board and see that he and some buddies were at the Little Bighorn. They have some good pictures. I read your blog every week and enjoy it immensely.
http://pie.midco.net/treasuredude/MontanaMayhem.html

Brandon Lipp
Macomb, Illinois

TG: Thanks, Brandon. Great photos. Wish I was there!

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Photo of the Day



















Near Ten Sleep, Wyoming

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Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Waveland


Soon after leaving Topeka, or Omaha, or Dallas, a person enters that rural realm which is scattered about the West and which will appear on no map. Let's call it "Waveland." There are not many folks in Waveland, but those that are there are friendly. On any given day, nearly every farmer and rancher one meets driving a pickup truck on a small road will wave at you. Some give a big Western howdy hand wave. Others, those who grip the steering wheel on the top to be in a ready position to wave, might give a mere one or two finger greeting to a stranger. Those drivers studying intently a neighbor's cattle or crops still manage to greet you. Even those who are in the process of tuning in Willie or Waylon on the radio manage to acknowledge your passing with the other hand. As in the past, after twenty or so miles of this, I too find myself almost involuntarily waving at everyone. While a mere wave may not mean much, it does give one the wonderful sense that they are among friends; that should misfortune occur, help is just a pickup truck away.

Something else I notice: I have never yet taken a trip west in which I did not cross at least one "Dry Creek." I crossed one once in Nebraska and half an hour later I was a bit surprised when I passed over yet another Dry Creek. This raises the question: "Can it be ‘dry' and still a creek?" Isn't a name like that about as absurd as Wet Creek or Water River? I later crossed a Lost Creek, but nary a Found Creek. On that same stretch of highway I saw signs along the road put up by the state that signified which group was responsible for keeping clean any particular section of the road. Mostly they were local church or 4-H groups and organizations such as the "Prairie Promenaders Square Dance Club." One sign read: "Nebraska Litter Control next mile–-The Bruce Messing Family."

Last night, while the rains came down, once again Deb and I took advantage of the "Dollar Nite" at the movies. Up was 300, an innovative, special effects-heavy treatment of King Leonidas (right) and his small band of Spartans who stood up against the army of the world, the Persian Empire (480 B.C.). Although there was way too much posturing and loud trash-talk for me to identify with the Leonidas character, and although the slo-mo gore scenes soon got tedious, Deb and I remained in our seats throughout. Some of the panoramic scenes were spectacular. When I lived in Greece, one day I rented a motorcycle and drove over the mountains to Sparta. Now, as then, Sparta is a small place. I took in the rather shabby local museum and marvelled at some of the dug artifacts under glass, especially the coins. But other than that, and the small statue of Leonidas, there is little to attest to the fact that here, on this small, sun-beaten plain (about the size of a Kansas county) a tiny society existed that would impact the world forever.

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Wyatt Earp

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Monday, June 18, 2007

Wired

Something of a mini disaster Saturday. Deb had just left in her grubbies to stroll up the street a short distance with our neighbor, Betty. The two were taking in the local "Garden Show." I was dressed in my grubbies too, just moments from my daily bike ride. Phone rings. A message: "Deb? Where are you? We are here waiting. There are about 35 of us. We are very disappointed!" The lady was clearly nervous and upset. Seems Deb had totally forgotten that she was to address the Kansas Authors Club at noon.

Since the restaurant where the talk was to take place was not far away--maybe five minutes--I raced outside, threw my bike on the car rack, then drove up the street looking for Deb. Found her quickly. Together we dashed for the venue. My mate, of course, was mortified that she so completely forgot the talk (Deb, right, has never yet met a talk, large or small, that she didn't like and for her to forget same is a pretty good indication that her mind was totally fizzed this morning). After only a few blocks, however, we both realized that Deb really looked bad. She was in rags. She had been working in the flowers and dirt all morning and that was certainly no way to address a luncheon of suits and pearls.

And so, I volunteered. Letting Deb out to walk back, I zipped to the restaurant (as Deb noted: "A man can get away with looking like a bum; a woman can't"). Explained--or tried to explain--to the host what the screw-up was all about--that Deb couldn't make the talk because she had been killed in a car wreck that morning--then sat down in my rags and enjoyed some iced tea. When the MC arose, he announced: "Our guest speaker today needs no introduction . . . because she's not here to be introduced."

When the laughter subsided, I took my place at the podium like a captain of a sinking boat takes his place at the wheel. For the next forty minutes, with no theme or thread to guide me, I just sort of flopped around like a gasping carp on a river bank. I tried to note things I thought the audience would be interested in--murder, madness, mayhem--but I'm afraid I wasn't very good. Several times members of the audience--Carol Yoho, Dr. Bob Lawson, Debra Stufflebean, etc.--bailed me out. Surprisingly, as we got deeper into the "talk" I discovered that I was actually enjoying myself. The good folks in attendance understood my dilemma and were, to a man and a woman, ready to pitch in and be entertained.

When it was all over, must say: I am glad Deb forgot the talk. I have not had to wing it in a long time and I rediscovered that it is good to hear applause and words of praise that may or may not be true. After the program, I drove to Gage Park, unholstered my bike and commenced my daily exercise/torture session. I noticed on this day, however, that I had much more spring in my legs . . . and a lot less pain.


Life is wine: Chug it down.

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Tom and Deb,

Thanks again so much for allowing us to interview you Friday. As always, you all were great! Please keep in touch!

Ken Spurgeon
Lone Chimney Productions
Wichita, Kansas

TG: Our pleasure, Ken. As mentioned, if there is anything more we can do, let us know. With all the talent you have amassed, Bloody Dawn--The Story of the Lawrence Massacre will surely rock! http://www.lonechimneyfilms.org/


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You Know You're a Hillbilly If . . .
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. . . your fifteen seconds of fame reads like this in the local paper.

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